Ive been on that journey for about a year now, and when the pandemic happened I had a plan to release a small slutty collection a small collection of really skanky, tiny items as at this point I decided I just wanted to release a couple of things when I feel like it, if people want to buy it they can, but the main thing to me was putting out messaging that was interesting, and also occupying a space in the sustainability sphere thats relatively not lame as that was kind of the main responsibility I gave to HANGER, because at the moment Im not really looking to operate on a large scale or actually really make that much money from it, Im just trying to show that you can have a brand that has good practices and is cool in that sphere because theres not that many. Founded in London, designer Claire Yurika Davis originally kicked things off in 2013. nothanksm8. It was very small to start out with literally we started in my basement before we got a studio around the corner and just did things small scale with the money that I could save, just keeping things small and working with friends a lot (Im the kind of person who doesnt mind asking for favours). Earlier this year, you produced a short video called. I was like why is the designer always bottom of the pile? We literally do everything and Im fucking sick of it, says the 29-year-old. Instead, shes going to move into consulting, helping bigger brands with established audiences to make more ethical choices so it comes from the top down. I think the cycle of success in fashion as it currently stands is unsustainable as BRICKS Editor in Chief Tori West had a similar issue when she started making the magazine, she managed to get BRICKS into major retailers and stocked internationally but there was no way for her to control or track what was happening production-wise and it led to a lot of unsustainable printing, so she chose to remove the magazine from these stockists and print it herself via preorders. I would recommend people to talk to individuals that they respect, and to ask lots of questions. The building which was formerly a car park may have its quirks but it has provided a home for Claires sustainable latex brand and its where shes created sexy looks for free-spirited and sensual fans. Elsewhere she also felt like co-host Alexa Chung displayed Asian solidarity with Angel and Minju but not her. The industry, she thinks, could adopt a slower, more intentional approach rather than pushing a shitload of product. In many ways, it sounds like Claires love affair with fashion has been on a steady decline since she started. People thought it was a bit mental but three or four years everybody else was doing it, she adds. How has this affected your business and your creativity? The outpouring of public sadness over recent high-profile celebrity deaths, plus shows like Dead to Me and Grayson Perry: Rites of Passage have been praised for their depictions of grief and the different way that it can manifest itself. You need to speak to people who have success in the current climate. I think when I was learning and studying at university we were never pushed to really discover that or bring ourselves into our work, it was about using external sources, which if I think back now obviously doesnt make any sense. If you think of it as an alternative to leather or PVC, its pretty clear that an alternative that doesnt involve the slaughter of an animal or even more plastic in the world makes sense. Watch. Ive never designed for a particular type of woman, and Ive never had a muse I think its such a boring idea, Davis says. So yes, being successful is a hindrance to sustainable practices if the practices are not transparent. But that did get me somewhere, and its all about taking these steps and the people you meet and asking for advice and you find your way like that. A post shared by Claire Yurika Davis (@nothanksm8). Also, latex doesnt have to be for everyone but definitely should be for more than it is now. There are times when youre drowning and times when youre okay.". I love to give advice and teach people but you need to know what you want to know before you ask for advice. Amal Clooney wears strapless gown in spring green, Designer Claire Yurika Davis on breaking into fashion, overcoming obstacles and tackling grief head on, HARPER'S BAZAAR, PART OF THE HEARST UK FASHION & BEAUTY NETWORK. It took me a few years to realise that if a concept wasnt working it was because it hadnt come from me. I mean I have been doing this for ages with my employees my social media girl moved to Berlin last year and its fine, we can sort things out over Whatsapp anyway. If you do want to work with these retailers, you can also make sure to negotiate terms that are going to benefit you and not ones that are just the standard contracts. We begin with non-conformist and founder of Hanger Inc Claire Yurika Davis, who masters a sci-fi Japanese-inspired aesthetic working chiefly in latex. Davis raises an interesting point; how is it possible to grieve in a healthy way, when society is so scared to talk about death? The brand is noteworthy for their commendable. An award winning media company committed to sharing the perspectives of people of colour from marginalised genders, Claire Yurika Davis wearing Hanger Inc, photography by Alessia Gunawan, courtesy of 50m London. Did you ever find it hard when you first started delegating tasks when its your label? So in 2014-15 I started talking about it more, I still didnt want to totally own it because there was still loads of things that I used that werent sustainable, so theres a toss-up there between talking about it and calling yourself truly sustainable when I wasnt because I also didnt have the power to be I didnt have the access to resources, I didnt know where to get everything. I think if you get swept up in quick success then the pressure to keep up can prevent sustainability. There are so many ways you can do it, the most important thing is working out what kind of scale you want to operate on and what is the purpose of your brand is it to sell loads of garments, is it to make people reconsider their clothing, or how they dispose of their clothing, is it to influence brands to change their practices? As an advocate for sustainability, she felt it was. And really, if youre a business that isnt B2B (so you dont sell directly to retailers or wholesalers) then youre automatically winning as youre cutting out all of that crap, so you wont get fined for sending something in a week late and all of the penalisations that comes with working with retailers. The thing is, there are of course problems with cancel culture, but people also need to be held accountable. Features, Imagery, Podcast polyestermagazine May 20, 2019 claire yurika davis, creative podcast, creative practises, feminist podcast, hanger, illustration, joey yu, podcast, polyester zine. And weed-infused gowns. "In Jamaica, you party for a week straight. Why Are We Still So Obsessed With Smoking? What drew you to becoming a designer and how did you notice your style start to develop? Since I was around five or six, I was always trying to make clothes and dreamt of being a designer. Fashion, she says, has always been a goal for her - ever since she was a child. Touch device users can explore by touch or with swipe gestures. Today, Claire shares her expert insight into starting your own brand, authentic storytelling and embracing sustainability. Claire is a sustainability consultant and the founder of HANGER. Im not sure if looking at these characters has really influenced me as a person. Have you experienced any issues due to the pandemic at HANGER and how have you managed to overcome them? Shortly after graduating in 2012, Davis founded her own label, Hanger, in 2013, with the simple aim of creating "good clothes for good people. Its so important for young designers to think about because, all of these retailers are run by older people who think younger people should respect them even though older people have fucked everything for us in the first place and so inherently owe us a lot, and also they need to remember that were the ones making moves here, so get on board! I think flexibility is so important in your working structure, but also in your team I know a lot of designers that are real control freaks, and to have a team that is pandemic-proof is to have a team that you can rely on and trust to be able to get on with their work without you breathing down their necks. Are you Asian American? Marrying storytelling with her love of design, she strived to create a narrative for each collection as if it were the wardrobe of different characters. Having watched the show again Claire realised that her full name, nor Hanger Inc, were never mentioned meaning that even though the show aired globally, she received less promotion and character development. ngiliz-Japon tasarmc, "iyi insanlar iin iyi kyafetler" mottosuyla yola kan Hanger markasnn kurucusu. People all over the world still bless their food to framed pictures of men so I suppose, really, my childhood wasnt that strange at all., I grew up in the Moonies, which is not what most people would probably envisage a cult to be there were no vibey robes or wild orgies, but there was a lot of pyramid scheme money-grabbing and brainwashing Claire Yurika Davis, A new film, Temple of Sleepy Chanpremiered on Nowness last week, further emphasising the cult-ish feeling behind the collection. The reason I look to empowered female figures in my work is that I already am one and I am surrounded by them whether they know it or not. I know, he had no concept of age restrictions and just wanted to watch things together. "We're like sustainability agony aunts," adds Claire Yurika Davis, who founded sustainable latex brand Hanger and now runs CogDis with Robinson and ex-Nike brand manager Florence Huntington-Whiteley. Youve got to think about what impact you personally want to make. Plus, sign up here to get Harpers Bazaar magazine delivered straight to your door. Yes, you may recognise her as one of the contestants hoping to win a chance to sell their designs on Net a Porter on the show that aired this year. Like obviously it depends who the designer is that you want to work for, but setting a project is really easy and Ive done it before for my interns, especially when we had not much to do around the studio. For more on Davis' brand visit Hanger Inc or to book a tarot reading visit Yuri Tarot. Theyre amazing. If we meet once or twice a week then you can get on with things a lot more easily. She and her partner Adolfo Sanchez had to compete together, designing and constructing garments while having different styles and techniques. As she signs off as the brands owner, the final and tenth collection is a love letter entitled: Sayonara Slutz! Probably something a bit frumpy, made of linen? From: London, UK - of Jamaican and Japanese heritage. While on Next In Fashion, Davis opened up about the death of her father a few years ago. At some point I started sending a friend, who was a white guy, to talk to them and then obviously everything was fine and sorted straight away. Sleepy Chan develops on this, adding strappy latex bra tops and her take on the ever-popular micro bag into the mix. How much does your work benefit or take influence from the other creatives around you? Everyone asks what it means but it doesnt mean anything! Was sustainability something that you thought about since the beginning of your brand or did it come about more organically as you progressed through the process? A funeral is meant to be a celebration," she says. For Davis, theres one stand-out piece though. It was an intense situation, but I met so many people that I really love," she says of the experience. Claire Yurika Davis has not received any gifts yet. Ive included designs in final collections that have come from an interns project. I was searching for a way that seems less hypocritical, she says. When we connect via video chat, shes sat in her Hackney studio, which she describes as fucking grim (shes a fan of expletives) as its cold and poorly insulated. The use of strong, bold fabrics like latex may conjure up images of sex dungeons and '80s sci-fi thrillers, but Hanger is about a lot more than just overt displays of sexuality. Dec 25, 2016 - When you hear the words ethical fashion - what do you visualise? It showed that they knew who they wanted to go the distance, she says. According to Claire Yurika Davis of London brand Hanger, latex needs to be part of the fashion conversation. You have a grave-digging party and every process of the funeral is a celebration where everyone is cooking food and coming together., She pauses, thoughtfully. Yes itll cost them more, and they might make a loss, but so what? Are there any ways that you would recommend to make a brand pandemic-proof? Once you begin, it just keeps on going really. Where last season was focused on speed and aggression, this time around Davis wanted to make a very clear departure from that and slow things down. Obviously, sustainability is needed in the fashion industry. Its how a lot of people are taught but its a weird way so you have to kind of unlearn that stuff and then learn through the business lens of what sells, and what sells is a story. Its difficult! How are they meant to earn any money to live at all? she points out. I think its pretty interesting what you said about incorporating things you already like, its almost like these things arent new to you because you already like them but if no one knows you or your brand yet then how would they know that? Its so archaic," she says. E-commerce; Honestly, art and fashion schools can be so chaotic, I cant even deal. Given that the aesthetic was inherently inspired by their previous work and racial community it was a difficult decision but they hadnt performed well. The designer channelling her cult upbringing into her new collection Fashion Feature Hanger founder Claire Yurika Davis draws on her childhood as part of The Moonies, Japanese tea ceremonies, and The Matrix for her AW18 offering 7August 2018 Text Emma Elizabeth Davidson Then it clicked. Claire Yurika Davis in conversation with Ruby Abiss discussing HANGER and the place of sustainability in our garments. Shows about death should be in the public sphere," says Davis. Yeah, totally, like Im not about to try and remanufacture a wheel I dont have the tools to fix it with its not my place and its too much of a burden, but what I can do is interact with people in that space and try and insert a little bit of knowledge and change a little bit of behaviour. You can literally do anything if you want to make bags in the future, set yourself a bag project, or jackets, or a logo. Whatsyourlegacy.co.uk "After the editing process, you obviously dont see everything Davis starred alongside 18 other talented designers, who all faced challenges each week themed around specific trends or influential styles, all to impress the line-up of guest judges, including Christopher Kane, Tommy Hilfiger and Instagrams Eva Chen. If you want to be pandemic-proof then your whole working and business structure has to be super flexible, like if you all have to be in the same place you dont! I didnt want it to be about me. A still from Temple of Sleepy Chan, directed by Jade Jackman. If youre not white mixed Asian youre not in the gang essentially, she adds. In my new Season 8 collection, Ive incorporated suits that the wearer can be comfortable in and adjust, which I guess we can call comfort power-dressing. Claire Yurika Davis Creative + Education Blending knowledge from her spiritual journey with 7 years building her independent, zero-waste fashion brand HANGER, Claire's expert voice, mystic energy + aesthetic status is human-centric and creatively unmatched. At one time I felt the same, that I couldnt talk about sustainability, but then I realised you just need to be clear. Barely there is very much our signature vibe as they were always our best sellers. The racy collection was accompanied by a print sale, all profits were donated to charities centering POC in the UK as a way to give back during the pandemic. She says:" Recent CSM grad Richard Quinn, who is defining his own genre of 'crack couture' follows . The Face: Gucci's trippy timewarp to ancient Rome Polyester Podcast: Claire Yurika Davis, designer HANGER Inc DAZED100 Content Project i-D: Weyes Blood, Titanic Rising interview Dazed: Karl Lagerfeld in his own words i-D: Rottingdean Bazaar and Matty Bovan's LFW closing party i-D: Extinction Rebellion 'swarm' London Fashion Week I want to make some of those too.. I did one with The Princes Trust which was an intensive business programme, so it was a week-long and they tell you all of these different areas of business that you need to think about. But lets not get religious twisted with spirituality. Martine Jarlgaard whose designs are comprised of dressy nostalgia and understated decadence is up next. Grief will always come at you in waves. Afterwards, she realised they had been covertly filming the entire conversation further adding to her theory that they didnt ever have her best interests at heart. 88 pages, perfect bound, printed on premium coated paper. Ever pushing the boundaries of design, HANGER continues to explore new forms with their first menswear collection, to be launched exclusively on Urban Outfitters at the end of March. Spirituality Lead Florence Huntington-Whiteley Talent + Community Plus, Nikki de Saint Phalle's tarot garden, Jessamyn Stanley on the politics of yoga and weed, Les Jesus play dress-up in Mexico City, Claire Yurika Davis of HANGER gets freaky with fashion's demonized materials, a primer on the endocannabinoid system, and fake celebrity weed brands. London-based designer and tarot reader Claire Yurika Davis founded her brand HANGER shortly after graduating in 2013. Over the course of the last few years, the ASOS Fashion Discovery award-winning designer has become known for her subversively sexy aesthetic, with latex, lace-up dresses, 90s-style blazers, skin-tight, bootcut trousers, and boldly branded fluoro t-shirts all featuring heavily. Meanwhile, Marco Morante and Ashton Hirota, and Farai Simoyi-Agbede and Kianga Kiki Milele, were best friends who had worked with each other before. Its difficult but also simple, she says. For me, having that break has made me realise that I was being annoying when we were together and so I really needed that distance to reassure myself that everything still goes fine when youre not there. A lot of places expect their interns to work every single day without paying them. The people around me really drive me and push me creatively, and fortunately, my close circle is full of creatives with whom I work regularly. I was really tired and feeling the effects of working non-stop and burning myself out, and so were a lot of my friends, she continues. At first I thought go and step on lego but now, realistically, I feel a bit sorry for her. A panel of esteemed judges including renowned industry figures such as Sharmadean Reid and Julia Sarr-Jamois along with ASOS' own CEO whittled them down to just 10. Claire Yurika Davis. After university, I basically went straight into a job that came off the back of an internship Id done for a few weeks Im good at sewing and it was a machinist job sewing lingerie. The show was a rollercoaster of insane highs and extreme lows," she tells me. A lot of brands will have one sustainable collection, or one good product for example, the one that gets mentioned most is the Adidas x Parley shoe. Elissa Grainger from Elissa Poppy and Claire Yurika Davis from HANGER are the two winners of the competition [Photo: ASOS] Over 600 emerging labels applied to ASOS' first Fashion Discovery competition. Which is fucking lovely isnt it, what a bunch of twats. "It allows people to see that death doesnt have to be only about sadness. After the show came out, we were all in New York and [a producer] said to one of the other contestants that there was someone that shed met that she thought shed like and she didnt. In the clip, the characters yearning for this slice of escapism are dressed head to toe in Hanger looks. I think this time around the lime satin tailored jacket and the black latex version are my favourite pieces. I would recommend people to find someone they can speak to who has success right now the problem with all of these mentors and teachers, even in universities, is that some of them were never successful, some of them have been but it was 20 years ago, and not all of their advice is actually that relevant. I really feel like it needs to be integrated from the beginning, from the bottom up, and now is such a good time to do it there are so many courses and online resources you can use. So when the pandemic hit I sent my team home early because there wasnt much we could do, our studio is in Soho so I asked everyone to stay home. Her new chapter is finding a way to shift fashions culture on a larger scale as shes been at the helm of her own company for long enough. Srdrlebilir giyim alannn ve yava moda akmnn nc isimlerinden. Watch the Nowness film Temple of Sleepy Chan below. With a fabric commonly associated with kink, she found that stockists and other potential partners were slow to take risks due to being scared to traverse unchartered territory. I liked the word, it was simple, it essentially didnt mean anything, it refers to a clothes hanger which is like the most basic thing and I liked that non-name-ness about it. Its always a jacket, every season if you know me, you know I have a real obsession with jackets, she says. While its bold, innovative and statement-making aesthetic is the defining feature, the brand also quietly focuses on sustainability and zero waste. Producer: Karan Chhatwal. Then theres the biggest drama of the series when Farai and Kiki (who worked for FUBU and House of Dereon, respectively) escaped elimination because Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss fame refused to send home two black women during the streetwear week. And to be honest, since taking that time off Im less interested in doing that much with HANGER as a brand brand I just want to do fun things that engage people, so what Ive been thinking during the pandemic is small things that I can make that are going to increase happiness and also intimacy, like once were all out of this situation. Dedicated to bringing latex into a fashion-forward context, Davis has been working with the fabric since 2013. We sat down with its designer Claire Yurika Davis We care. She founded the brand back in 2013. My dad died in 2014, when I was 18, and hearing her honest, straight-talking approach to death was refreshing after so many years of feeling so misunderstood. I didnt realise I mean I dont think anybody realises this as a fashion graduate that if you want to start your own label, youre not going to make money for an extremely long time unless youve got rich parents or something. It was much better for me to cut that out and make less money making a smaller range of products but know exactly where the fabric was made and who made it and be able to control it, and that helps me feel happy about what Im producing. In the future Ill most definitely be making garms for spirituality, and well probably just trade them by then. Plus, Nikki de Saint Phalle's tarot garden, Jessamyn Stanley on the politics of yoga and weed, Les Jesus play dress-up in Mexico City, Claire Yurika Davis of HANGER gets freaky with fashion's demonized materials, a primer on the endocannabinoid Unfortunately, profit margins are way more important to brands than environmental damage and slavery, so I think fashion still has an incredibly long way to go.. Davis stood out on the show for her warm and positive energy, as well as her fearless approach to design. If there are brands that are still making stuff, theyll definitely have tasks that can be done outside of the studio. I interviewed Claire Yurika Davis, founder and designer of the London-based, latex-focused label HANGER Inc, for The Polyester Zine Podcast's 'Ask An Expert' section, on How to Start a Fashion Brand. It's unsurprising and depressing at the same time that that was the reality.". Unfortunately, profit margins are way more important to brands than environmental damage and slavery, so I think fashion still has an incredibly long way to go.
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